The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. IW392101/IW392103) is the first model in IWC’s history to combine a chronograph from the 89000 calibre family with the perpetual calendar’s moon phase display in a subdial at “12 o’clock”. To achieve this, both the moon and the shadow of the earth are depicted on a single disc and rotate beneath an aperture in the lower part of the subdial.
While creating the 89630 calibre, IWC’s present-day master watchmakers constantly re- ferred back to the old design blueprints that were their source of inspiration. But there was a significant challenge, as the moon phase in the IWC-manufactured 52610 calibre normally used for the perpetual calendar is located at “12 o’clock”. If the chronograph’s hour and minute coun- ters were to be placed there, the hands would go straight through the centre of the moon phase disc. The 89360 chronograph calibre, on the other hand, had no room for a moon phase. As a result, the engineers designed the 89630 calibre, combining the dual counters of the chronograph with the moon phase mechanism and displaying them on a single subdial. A glance through the transparent sapphire-glass back cover reveals the so- phisticated design of the movement, which has blued screws, a red gold rotor and various types of decorative polishing on the bridges.
The Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is available in two versions: 18-carat red gold and stainless steel. With its 43-millimetre case diameter and case height of 15.5 millimetres, the design of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar Chronograph is impressive yet carefully balanced. The crown and the two push-buttons are cylindrical and no longer as round as those of the Da Vinci Perpetual Calendar of 1985. Combined with the large lugs of the moving horns, they create an impression of overall har- mony. Despite the many displays, the dial remains clear and uncluttered because the designers chose dark blue as the colour for the chronograph moon phase totalizer at “12 o’clock”. This firmly distinguishes it from the dial and three subdials of the red gold version (Ref. IW392101) and the stainless-steel model (Ref. IW392103), which are silver- plated and slate-coloured, respectively.
The perpetual calendar works with the utmost precision: in 577.5 years, the display will diverge by just one day from the moon’s actual course. The perpetual calendar displays the date, month and day of the week on three subdials of the same colour at “3”, “6” and “9 o’clock”, respectively. A small window in the bottom left-hand section of the dial reveals the four-digit year display. Mechanically pro- grammed, the calendar takes into account the different length of the months and even the leap years. Nevertheless, every 100 years (2100, 2200, etc.) a leap day normally due is omitted, which means that a watchmaker will have to advance the calendar manually on 1 March. In 2300, an- other intervention will be necessary when the current century slide with the figures 20, 21 and 22 will need to be replaced with a new one for the years 2300 to 2599.
For the chronograph, the designers likewise made no concessions. The hour and minute counters are combined in a totalizer at “12 o’clock”, which enables stopped times to be read off as if they were the time of day. This is a significantly more elegant form of aggregate timing than two separate counters. The blue central chronograph hand shows stopped times to an accuracy of one-eighth of a second. The chronograph has two push-buttons, which are used to start, stop and reset the hands, as well as for the flyback function. The movement itself is designed in such a way that the stopwatch can run continuously without diminishing the 68-hour power reserve.
I said that this edition had a surprisingly mild premium over the non-limited model. Special version watches often cost significantly more than their regular siblings, many times with no other motive than that it’s labeled a special edition and maybe has another dial colour – and for some assumed “exclusivity.” This can be quite frustrating for watch collectors. This makes it more attractive for the collector who appreciates the Ingenieur line but wants something different and less common compared to the normal offerings – and at a year where we’ve seen “limited edition” runs of 2,012 or 6,000 pieces, 250 pieces makes it feel much more “uncommon” indeed. The Iwc Watches Bristol Replica Ingenieur Chronograph Sport Edition “50th Anniversary Of Mercedes-AMG” is available on a black calfskin strap, at retailers and online for $11,800. Picture this: in 2016, you felt inclined to buy one of these strictly limited-edition-only IWC Ingenieur watches, thinking it’s a one-time chance to find a new-old take on the Ingenieur… Well, worry not if you haven’t, since IWC now is starting essentially the identical watch with a couple fundamental cosmetic tweaks along with three completely new versions – a time-only, two chronograph models, plus a chronograph perpetual calendar – in what’s now a new IWC Ingenieur collection.As a beginner as well as the entry-level version, we have exactly the IWC Ingenieur Automatic 40 as seen above, with references IW357001, IW357002, and IW357003 starting at only under $5,000 and moving up from there as you update for a steel necklace or some solid 18k red gold case. Inspired by the IWC Ingenieur reference 666, the very initial Ingenieur that dates back to 1955, the silver dial version on black leather seems closest to its predecessor.